Memory Monday: How Dinners Change

My great-grandfather, his second wife, and their family

HOW DINNERS HAVE CHANGED THROUGH THE GENERATIONS

The following is from the book Everyday Cookery, Table Talk, and Hints for Laundry by Juliet Corson, published 1884—about five years before my great-grandmother married my great-grandfather (added note: Even though he had a wife and children at home, he fought in the Civil War—1861-1865, his first wife died in 1888. His second wife—my great-grandmother—was born in 1862, and they married in 1889.)

THE DINNER SERVICE.

A dinner service consists of a covered soup-tureen and ladle and deep plates for soup, platters and plates for fish and meats, deep covered dishes for vegetables, a gravy-tureen, salad bowl, cheese tray, sauce-boat, and a pudding dish, with small plates for dessert; the salad and cheese are usually served with, or directly after the roast. These sets of dishes can be bought in New York from five dollars up, according to style and quality. Unless a person is rich enough to at once replace broken dishes belonging to decorated sets, plain white dishes are most desirable; they are in perfect taste, and with a snowy cloth, and clean glassware, they set a table nicely.

AMERICAN DINNER SERVICE.

A third form of service, preferred personally, as combining all the advantages of the two already given, and still preserving the genial element of individual hospitality, has been considered the most delightful way of serving a dinner, by many guests.

The table is laid as for the dinner, it la Russe, with the relishes, small sweets, and confectionery; the oysters at each place; the first course of soup and fish are placed before the host and hostess, and served by them, the waiters taking up each plate as it is served, and placing it before the guest; at the same time, with the fish, passing the potatoes. In the succeeding courses the same method is fol lowed, until the dessert is reached, the cloth being cleared from crumbs, and all the glasses except those for water, champagne, and madeira, sherry, or port; only one of these wines is taken with dessert. Coffee is served in the drawing-room directly after dinner; and tea in an hour to the guests who remain.

FIRST COURSE

Oysters on the Shells.

Consommi. Salmon, with Shrimp sauce.

Parisienne Potatoes. Relishes.

SECOND COURSE.

Salmi of Duck, with Olives. Lobster Salad.

French Beans. Asparagus with Cream.
Oyster Patties.

Roman Punch.

THIRD COURSE.

Roast Chicken, with Potato Croquettes.

Game Birds with Salad.

Green Peas. Cheese Straws.

FOURTH COURSE

Charlotte of Strawberries. Orange Croquante.

Panaehie Jelly with Fruit.

Confectionery. Candied Fruit.

Coffee.

How things are done today, at least in my house.

I guess the nearest thing to the dinners discussed in the section above are our Thanksgiving Dinners when the family all gathers, occasionally along with friends, but our dinners are so different from what is written about in 1884.

First of all, instead of white dishes, I always use my Corelle Callaway dishes (I like the green ivy, and if one of them breaks—which they almost never do—I just buy a replacement on E-bay). Next, I don’t use table cloths, so I don’t have to worry about that one. And I have never had waiters serve in my house, unless that’s what I’m considered when I jump up and get something that isn’t on the table. Now onto the menu: We only have one course—everyone grabs their filled salad bowl and sits at the table where everything else, besides dessert, has already been set out. Thanksgiving Dinner is always the same: smoked ribs, brisket (my son does a wonderful job smoking the meat), stuffed mushrooms, potatoes au gratin, corn, jalapeno poppers (low-fat and baked, of course), and a salad bar (after all, not everyone likes the same thing in his or her salad, and I hate to see them pick out the things they don’t like). As far as dessert goes, no one wants to even look at that until the Dallas game half-time, and we usually have Marie Callendar’s Dutch Apple Pie and vanilla ice cream.

What kind of dinners do you host? Please share thoughts and memories.